I’m sorry to hear that Italy kind of underwhelmed you this time, but I have to admit our experiences last summer were pretty much the same (minus the dirty old trains—I was actually really impressed with the trains in Italy… way better than the ones I experienced back in 2005!). It was probably the country we were the most excited to visit in western Europe (England not withstanding!) and we left feeling like it was the one we’d be the least likely to revisit any time soon. I don’t have the same ties to the country that you do, but yeah… I get it.
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